Ol' Skool Makan #1: Ikan Bakar Jalan Bellamy -- Still Smoking After All These Years


I first started eating at Jalan Bellamy’s ikan bakar stalls sometime in the mid-’90s, back when I was working in the heart of KL. Lunchtime adventures were simple then -- pile into someone’s Proton Aeroback, drive up past the old Istana Negara, and follow the smoke. That’s how we found ourselves at this unassuming row of stalls where fish, sambal, and banana leaves met the open flame to create pure magic.




According to one of the stall owners, it all began in the early 1980s when a few vendors started selling nasi campur near Gate 3 of the old Istana and close to the Surau Istana Negara. Soon, the crowd grew -- hungry office workers, taxi drivers, and locals all came for a taste. 

One day, the King himself, Sultan Mahmud Iskandar of Johor, who was the Yang di-Pertuan Agong at the time, noticed the bustling scene and asked his officers what they were selling. When told it was nasi campur, he remarked that the setup looked a little unsightly with so many tourists around. Not long after, DBKL stepped in and built the current premises, and from that point on, the humble nasi campur evolved into the ikan bakar haven we know and love today.




Fast forward nearly 30 years, and guess what -- it’s still my go-to spot for ikan bakar. The crowd may have changed, the prices may have gone up a bit, but that unmistakable smoky aroma and sambal kick remain exactly the same. Parking can be a bit of a sport these days (some things never get easier), but it’s always worth the effort. And now, to make the wait a little sweeter, there are buskers playing live music and even a few gerais selling kerepek and local snacks, giving the whole stretch a festive, KL street carnival vibe.

Among the many stalls, Kak Jat Ikan Bakar still draws the biggest crowd. Her ikan pari is perfectly charred, the sambal rich and fiery -- the kind that lingers just long enough to make you reach for another bite. Gerai Mak Alang and Ikan Bakar Seri Melaka are also long-time favourites, each with their own loyal following. 

The place even caught international attention when Adam Richman of Secret Eats featured it, proof that Jalan Bellamy’s old-school charm still resonates far beyond KL.

Whether you go for squid, stingray, or a humble kembung, the result is always the same: hands messy, lips burning, and heart full. Jalan Bellamy remains one of those rare KL food enclaves where time -- and taste -- stand still.


About Ol' Skool Makan

Ol' Skool Makan is my little tribute to Malaysia’s timeless eateries -- the ones that fed us before hashtags, food apps, and fancy plating. It’s about real food, real people, and memories that still smell like sambal and kopi-O.


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Dapatkan buku 'Kisah Hidup & Budaya Pop Anak Gen-X' di SINI

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